Discovering Vermont's Black Mountain: A Hidden Climbing Gem
DeepintheNortheastKingdomofVermontlietheKingdomHeritageLands, 132,000 acresofformerandcurrenttimberlandconservedforpublicaccesssince 1998.
在佛蒙特州東北王國的深處，坐落著王國遺產地，這片佔地 132,000 英畝的土地，包括以前的和現在的林地，自 1998 年以來一直受到保護，供公眾進入。
Theremoteandundevelopedareaismainlythedomainofwildlife, loggingtrucks, huntersandsnowmobilers.
這個偏遠且未開發的地區主要是野生動物、伐木卡車、獵人和雪地摩托車手的活動區域。
Recently, however, increasingnumbersofrockclimbershavefrequentedastunningbandofchiseledgranitetowerssetinthemiddleoftheKingdomHeritageLands, atacliff30minutessouthoftheCanadianborderandonthenorthernedgeoftheNulheganbasin.
然而，最近越來越多的攀岩愛好者光顧了位於王國遺產地中心的一處令人驚嘆的鑿刻花崗岩塔群，該塔群位於加拿大邊境以南 30 分鐘路程的懸崖上，位於努爾赫根盆地的北緣。
“Assoonasyoureachthecliff, yourjawdrops,” MischaTourin, executivedirectoroftheClimbingResourceAccessGroupofVermont—orCRAG-VT—saidlastweek.
「當你到達懸崖邊時，你會驚訝得下巴都掉下來了，」佛蒙特州攀岩資源獲取小組（CRAG-VT）的執行董事米沙·圖林上週說道。
“Itallisperfect90-degreeangles, likeitwasbuiltbyrockclimberswithrockclimbinginmind.” Climbersfirstexploredthecliff, knownasBlackMountain (not to be mistaken for Black Mountain Natural Area in Dummerston), around2005, butonlyvisiteditsporadicallyuntilitwasaddedtothesecondeditionofVermont’scomprehensiveoutdoorclimbingguidebook, “ VermontRock,” in 2022.
「這裡的一切都是完美的 90 度角，就像是攀岩者專門為攀岩而建造的一樣。」大約在 2005 年，攀岩者首次探索了這座被稱為黑山（不要與達默斯頓的黑山自然保護區混淆）的懸崖，但直到 2022 年它被添加到佛蒙特州綜合戶外攀岩指南《佛蒙特岩石》混淆）的懸崖，但直到 2022 年它被添加到佛蒙特州綜合戶外攀岩指南《佛蒙特岩石》偶爾到佛蒙特岩石」偶爾到佛蒙特岩石」偶爾到佛蒙特岩石」偶爾到佛蒙特岩石上。
Alongsidethesubsequentincreaseinuseofthecliff, thenonprofitCRAG-VThasspentthepastfewyearsworkingwithlandownersandeasement-holderstopreserveaccess, includingcreatingaclimbingmanagementplanandestablishingrockclimbingasan“acceptableformofrecreation”ontheKingdomHeritageLands.
隨著懸崖的使用量不斷增加，非營利組織 CRAG-VT 在過去幾年裡一直與土地所有者和地役權持有者合作，以保護通行權，包括制定攀岩管理計劃，並將攀岩確立為王國遺產地上「可接受的娛樂形式」。
Aspartofthateffort, sixweeksoftrailworkonthearea’sruggedandsteepapproachtrailhavebeencompletedoverthelasttwoyearsbyNorthWoodsStewardshipCenter, withsignificantfundingfromtheVermontDepartmentofForests, ParksandRecreation.
作為這項工作的一部分，在過去兩年裡，北伍茲管理中心在佛蒙特州森林、公園和娛樂部門的大量資金支持下，完成了該地區崎嶇陡峭的進山小徑的六週步道修繕工作。
AccordingtoTourin, outdoorrockclimbinginVermontwas, foralongtime, definedbytheschistthatrunsalongthespineoftheGreenMountains—auniquerockcoveredwithtinyimpressions, usedbyrockclimbersas“holds.” Incontrast, BlackMountainismadeupofstronggranitecoveredin“perfect”parallelcracksofvaryingsizes, Tourinsaid, whichgeologicallyhasmoreincommonwiththeWhiteMountainsofNewHampshireorworld-classclimbingareaslikeYosemite.
根據圖林介紹，佛蒙特州的戶外攀岩長期以來都以貫穿綠山山脊的片岩為標誌——這種獨特的岩石表面佈滿細小的凹陷，攀岩者可以利用這些凹陷作為「支點」。相較之下，圖林說，黑山則由堅硬的花崗岩構成，其表面佈滿了大小不一、排列整齊的「完美」平行裂縫，從地質學角度來看，它更接近新罕布夏州的白山或優勝美地等世界級攀岩勝地。
Thosecracks, Tourinsaid, areveryconduciveto“traditional”climbing, whereparticipantsjamtheirhandsandfeetintothecracktomoveupwardandplaceexpansiongear—attachedtoarope—inthecrackstocatchafallorhelpfacilitateadescent.
圖林說，這些裂縫非常適合「傳統」攀岩，參與者將手腳塞進裂縫中向上移動，並將膨脹裝備（連接在繩索上）放在裂縫中，以防止墜落或幫助下降。
“IthinkIfeelcomfortablesayingthat (Black Mountain) isthebestplaceintheNortheastforcrackclimbing, asfarasthenumberofcrackclimbsinonecliff,” thelongtimeclimberandguidesaid.
「我認為我可以很肯定地說，就一處懸崖上的裂縫攀岩數量而言，（黑山）是東北地區裂縫攀岩的最佳地點，」這位資深的攀岩者和嚮導說道。
About70differentrouteshavebeenestablishedatthearea, mostofthemofmoderateoradvanceddifficulty. However, reaching“Vermont’spremierecrackclimbingmecca”canbequitethetrek.
該地區已開闢約70條不同的攀岩路線，其中大部分難度為中等或較高。然而，前往「佛蒙特州首屈一指的裂縫攀岩聖地」卻是一段相當漫長的跋涉。
BlackMountainislocatedaboutathree-hourdrivefromBurlington, ontheedgeofAverill (population 21) andLewis (population 0). FollowingaGPSwilllikelyleadtoadeadend, andahigh-clearancevehicleisrecommended.
黑山距離伯靈頓約三小時車程，位於艾弗里爾（人口21）和路易斯（人口0）的交界處。使用GPS導航很可能會走到盡頭，建議駕駛底盤較高的車輛。
ThecliffisevenasizabledistancefromtheNortheastKingdomtownsofSt. Johnsbury (one hour and 30 minutes) orNewport (one hour), sinceusersgenerallydriveallthewayuptotheCanadianborderinNortonbeforetraveling 6.2 miles southonaslow, rockypower-lineaccessroadtoreachBlackMountain’sparkingarea.
這座懸崖距離東北王國的聖約翰斯伯里鎮（1 小時 30 分鐘）或紐波特鎮（1 小時）都有相當遠的距離，因為遊客通常會一路開車到諾頓的加拿大邊境，然後沿著一條緩慢崎嶇的輸電線路道路向南行駛 6.2 英里，才能到達黑山的停車場。
“It’sdefinitelyfaraway,” Tourinsaid. “ThelastfewtimesI’vebeenthere, itcertainlyseemslikemorefolksinCanadahavenoticedthatit’saprettygoodclimbingresourcebecauseit’sonlyacouplemilessouthoftheborder.”
「那地方確實很遠，」圖林說。 “我最近幾次去那裡，感覺加拿大越來越多的人注意到那裡是一個很不錯的攀岩勝地，因為它離邊境只有幾英里遠。”
BeforeCRAG-VT’sinvolvement, theordealtoreachthebaseofthecliffdidn’tstopattheparkingarea. Upuntilacoupleofyearsago, visitorshadtotryandlocatetheaccesstrail, whichwassteep, pronetoerosion, oftenmuddyandlinedwithpricklyplantsthatlatchedontoanynearbypantsleg.
在CRAG-VT介入之前，到達懸崖底部的艱辛並未止步於停車場。直到幾年前，遊客還必須費力尋找通往懸崖底部的步道，這條步道陡峭、易受侵蝕、經常泥濘不堪，而且兩旁長滿了帶刺的植物，很容易勾住附近的褲管。
Asoflastmonth, however, trailworkershavefullyestablishedasustainableapproachtrailthatincludesawelcomekiosk, 38stonesteps, fourwoodenladdersand160 feet of retaining wall, arecentCRAG-VTnewsletterexplained.
但根據 CRAG-VT 最近的一份通訊報道，截至上個月，步道工作人員已全面建成一條可持續的步道，其中包括一個迎賓亭、38 個石階、4 個木梯和 160 英尺長的擋土牆。
“Nextphaseswillcontinuebase-of-cliffstabilization, assessmorecomplexgullyissues, andexploreparkingimprovements,” thenewsletterread. “ThisworkmovesusclosertoafullysustainableBlackMountainforyearstocome.”
「下一階段將繼續加固懸崖底部，評估更複雜的溝壑問題，並探索改善停車設施的方案，」簡報中寫道。 “這項工作使我們離未來數年內黑山完全可持續發展的目標更近了一步。”
AccordingtoTourin, CRAG-VT’sworkliesnotonlyinsecuringaccesstoclimbingandstewardingcliffsbutalsoinbuildingcommunity.
據 Tourin 稱，CRAG-VT 的工作不僅在於保障攀岩活動和保護懸崖，還在於建立社區。
Tothatend, thegroupheldweekendmembermeetupstitledKingdomClimbingWeekendthisyearandlast, rentingoutcottagesatQuimbyCountryresortinAverill.
為此，該組織今年和去年都舉辦了名為「王國攀登週末」的週末成員聚會，在艾弗里爾的昆比鄉村度假村租下了小木屋。
“Westarteditoffmaybeasaone-timethingtocelebratethestartof (CRAG-VT’s) corridormanageragreement,” saidTourin, addingthatmostofthose40participantswantedtoreturnthenextyeartowhathedescribedasa“magicallittlefamilycamp”onalake.
「我們最初可能只是想藉此機會慶祝（CRAG-VT）走廊管理協議的開始，」圖林說，並補充道，40 名參與者中的大多數人都希望第二年能回到他所描述的湖邊「神奇的小家庭營地」。
“It’saprettygreateventandaprettycoolwaytobring, Ithink, alittlebitofmoneyintothelocalcommunitythere,” hesaid.
「我認為這是一個非常棒的活動，也是一個為當地社區帶來一些資金的好方法，」他說。
WhiletheremotenessofBlackMountaincanbeadraw, Tourinsaidit’shardtogaugethefutureoftheclimbingareaduetoitslocation.
雖然黑山的偏遠性可能具有吸引力，但圖林表示，由於其地理位置的原因，很難評估攀岩區的未來。
“It’sanamazingcliff,” hesaid. “Idon’tknowifitwilleverbesupercrowded, justbecauseit’ssofartuckedawayinthecornerofthestate, butit’sdefinitelyaresourceworthtravelingto.”
“這是一處令人驚嘆的懸崖，”他說。 “我不知道它是否會變得非常擁擠，因為它位於該州的偏僻角落，但它絕對是一個值得前往的景點。”
ThisstorywasoriginallypublishedbyVTDiggeranddistributedthroughapartnershipwithThe .
本文最初由 VTDigger 發布，並透過與 The 的合作進行分發。
Deep in the Northeast Kingdom of Vermont lie the Kingdom Heritage Lands, 132,000 acres of former and current timberland conserved for public access since 1998.
The remote and undeveloped area is mainly the domain of wildlife, logging trucks, hunters and snowmobilers.
Recently, however, increasing numbers of rock climbers have frequented a stunning band of chiseled granite towers set in the middle of the Kingdom Heritage Lands, at a cliff 30 minutes south of the Canadian border and on the northern edge of the Nulhegan basin.
“As soon as you reach the cliff, your jaw drops,” Mischa Tourin, executive director of the Climbing Resource Access Group of Vermont — or CRAG-VT — said last week.
“It all is perfect 90-degree angles, like it was built by rock climbers with rock climbing in mind.” Climbers first explored the cliff, known as Black Mountain (not to be mistaken for Black Mountain Natural Area in Dummerston), around 2005, but only visited it sporadically until it was added to the second edition of Vermont’s comprehensive outdoor climbing guidebook, “ Vermont Rock,” in 2022.
Alongside the subsequent increase in use of the cliff, the nonprofit CRAG-VT has spent the past few years working with landowners and easement-holders to preserve access, including creating a climbing management plan and establishing rock climbing as an “acceptable form of recreation” on the Kingdom Heritage Lands.
As part of that effort, six weeks of trail work on the area’s rugged and steep approach trail have been completed over the last two years by NorthWoods Stewardship Center, with significant funding from the Vermont Department of Forests, Parks and Recreation.
According to Tourin, outdoor rock climbing in Vermont was, for a long time, defined by the schist that runs along the spine of the Green Mountains — a unique rock covered with tiny impressions, used by rock climbers as “holds.” In contrast, Black Mountain is made up of strong granite covered in “perfect” parallel cracks of varying sizes, Tourin said, which geologically has more in common with the White Mountains of New Hampshire or world-class climbing areas like Yosemite.
Those cracks, Tourin said, are very conducive to “traditional” climbing, where participants jam their hands and feet into the crack to move upward and place expansion gear — attached to a rope — in the cracks to catch a fall or help facilitate a descent.
“I think I feel comfortable saying that (Black Mountain) is the best place in the Northeast for crack climbing, as far as the number of crack climbs in one cliff,” the longtime climber and guide said.
About 70 different routes have been established at the area, most of them of moderate or advanced difficulty. However, reaching “Vermont’s premiere crack climbing mecca” can be quite the trek.
Black Mountain is located about a three-hour drive from Burlington, on the edge of Averill (population 21) and Lewis (population 0). Following a GPS will likely lead to a dead end, and a high-clearance vehicle is recommended.
The cliff is even a sizable distance from the Northeast Kingdom towns of St. Johnsbury (one hour and 30 minutes) or Newport (one hour), since users generally drive all the way up to the Canadian border in Norton before traveling 6.2 miles south on a slow, rocky power-line access road to reach Black Mountain’s parking area.
“It’s definitely far away,” Tourin said. “The last few times I’ve been there, it certainly seems like more folks in Canada have noticed that it’s a pretty good climbing resource because it’s only a couple miles south of the border.”
Before CRAG-VT’s involvement, the ordeal to reach the base of the cliff didn’t stop at the parking area. Up until a couple of years ago, visitors had to try and locate the access trail, which was steep, prone to erosion, often muddy and lined with prickly plants that latched onto any nearby pants leg.
As of last month, however, trail workers have fully established a sustainable approach trail that includes a welcome kiosk, 38 stone steps, four wooden ladders and 160 feet of retaining wall, a recent CRAG-VT newsletter explained.
“Next phases will continue base-of-cliff stabilization, assess more complex gully issues, and explore parking improvements,” the newsletter read. “This work moves us closer to a fully sustainable Black Mountain for years to come.”
According to Tourin, CRAG-VT’s work lies not only in securing access to climbing and stewarding cliffs but also in building community.
To that end, the group held weekend member meetups titled Kingdom Climbing Weekend this year and last, renting out cottages at Quimby Country resort in Averill.
“We started it off maybe as a one-time thing to celebrate the start of (CRAG-VT’s) corridor manager agreement,” said Tourin, adding that most of those 40 participants wanted to return the next year to what he described as a “magical little family camp” on a lake.
“It’s a pretty great event and a pretty cool way to bring, I think, a little bit of money into the local community there,” he said.
While the remoteness of Black Mountain can be a draw, Tourin said it’s hard to gauge the future of the climbing area due to its location.
“It’s an amazing cliff,” he said. “I don’t know if it will ever be super crowded, just because it’s so far tucked away in the corner of the state, but it’s definitely a resource worth traveling to.”
This story was originally published by VTDigger and distributed through a partnership with The .
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